Why we are surfing?
More intense and important than others. The reasons why I go into the water with my board today can be different tomorrow. Do I want to be close to nature, do I need some distance from my everyday life, do I need to let off steam or do I simply want to do something good for myself? Something about it, however, seems to unite us all. So what is it that makes us throw ourselves into the waves every year, or – for the lucky ones among us who have the privilege of going surfing every day – every day a new?
Surfing is just like all the other things in life: the best way to get to the bottom of it is to try it!